It’s one of the more common questions we get from customers, “How tight should I make my Rockworkx thumbscrews?”

If you search the forums, you’ll see a lot of different answers for the torque spec’s on hardtop fasteners. Some owners recommend torquing the bolts to specific numbers, like 13 ft-lbs for the rear and 7.5 ft-lbs for the front freedom panels. Others suggest simply “finger-tight” or using a cordless driver set to a very low setting.

A deep search on factory Torque specs seem to reveal the something similar:

Jeep Hardtop Bolt Specs (CJ, YJ, TJ, JK, JL, JT)

Different generations of the Wrangler list slightly different values, but the commonly referenced OEM specs are:

• Front / Freedom Panel Bolts: ~ 7.5 ft-lbs (≈ 90–95 in-lbs)
• Side / Rear Hardtop Bolts: ~ 13 ft-lbs

These numbers are consistent with torque charts used across JK–JL, and they reflect the fact that the front bolts clamp thinner fiberglass, while the rear bolts sit on thicker structure.

Ford Bronco 6G (2021+)

The Bronco manuals and tech sheets reference approximately:

• Hardtop-to-body bolts: ~ 15 ft-lbs (20 ± 3 N·m)
  

These are standard hex bolts in the OEM setup, not thumb screws, but they give us a safe and accurate baseline.

Note that many shop Torque wrenches or Torque adaptes will barly register 10 ft - lbs and you should have on the reads on the low ringe 2.0-99 Ft.l

The truth is, there’s no single magic number that applies to every rig. What matters most is understanding why you’re tightening, what materials you’re working with, and how your setup distributes pressure. Your RIG usage will also make a big difference.

For thosse who would like to us a torque wrench we will be offering ¼", ⅜", and ½" torque wrench adapters designed specifically for Rockworkx thumbscrews if you prefer to set an exact value.

Understanding the Setup

All modern Jeep and Bronco hardtops, whether it’s a CJ, YJ, TJ, JK, JL, JT, or the 6th Gen Bronco,  attach in essentially the same way. The bolts (or thumbscrews) pass through the fiberglass or composite hardtop and secure into a steel nut carrier on the body.

Because the hardtop material is plastic or fiberglass, overtightening can crack the mounting surface or strip the threaded insert. On the flip side, under-tightening can cause rattles or leaks if the panels aren’t held firmly enough.

That’s why the “sweet spot” is somewhere between snug and secure, firm enough to hold, but not so tight that you’re stressing the material.

Real-World Feel: What 7-13 ft-lbs Feels Like

If you don’t have a torque wrench handy, here’s an easy way to visualize it:

• 7 ft-lbs feels like twisting the lid off a new jar of peanut butter,  solid, but not straining.
• 13 ft-lbs is a firm hand-tight plus a small additional twist, what you’d call “snug.”

With Rockworkx thumbscrews, that range is right where most people end up when tightening by hand using the built-in D-ring.

Why Rockworkx Thumb Screws Make It Easier

Unlike the small-headed factory bolts that focus pressure onto a ¾-inch steel washer, Rockworkx thumbscrews feature a 1.3-inch billet aluminum head that spreads the load evenly across a larger surface area. That means you can tighten them a bit more confidently without worrying about cracking your hardtop.

Each thumbscrew combines a stainless-steel inner thread and cap with a press-fit anodized aluminum outer dial, available in multiple colors. The included high-performance POM polymer spacer does two important things:

1. Prevents metal-to-fiberglass contact so the aluminum head never presses directly against your Jeep or Bronco hardtop surface.
2. Reduces binding, keeping the screw from tightening all the way down onto the hardtop and making removal much easier even after long periods of vibration, trail dust, or heat expansion.

Our thumbscrews also feature an integrated D-Ring, which serves two functional purposes:

1. It provides leverage to tighten or loosen the thumbscrew easily by hand.
2. It creates an additional attachment point for Rockworkx tie-downs, MOLLE straps, and gear straps, helping you keep your rear cargo area secure and organized.

This design spreads the load across a larger 1.25-inch billet aluminum head while protecting the composite hardtop from stress points, giving you a safer, more forgiving tightening range and added functionality inside your rig.

How We Do It

Personally, I tighten mine until I feel firm resistance using the D-ring, then stop when I know I can still back them off by hand.

If you’re new to installing your top, check them again after a few days of driving, they can sometimes settle slightly and need a small re-tighten. Over time, you’ll find the “sweet spot” where they stay snug without overdoing it.

If you do happen overtighten and struggle to loosen them, a small screw driver or something similar can be used in the “D-Ring ‘ gap to easily loosen.. 

If one doesn’t thread smoothly, it’s often just the nut carrier shifting slightly out of alignment, a quick push or adjustment with your finger under the carrier usually sets it straight. This applies to Jeep, Ford Bronco receiving nuts are welded to the frame.

The Bottom Line

You don’t need to overthink it, or over-torque it.
The key is a firm, hand-tight fit with the D-ring, not a muscle contest.

 If you can loosen it by hand and the top feels secure while driving, you’re in the right zone.
The goal is simple:
Secure, but not over-tightened.

As with any hardtop setup, it’s a good idea to check your fasteners periodically — especially after long drives, temperature changes, or time on rough trails.

If using a torque wrench we do now have 1/4in ⅜” and ½ Torque wrench adapter specifically design for our thumbscrews.  

If you ever have questions about installation or fitment, our team is always here to help.

Team@rockworkx.com